Recently a reader wrote and asked, “Should I apply concealer before or after my foundation?”
I’m asked this question quite often and the answer, in my opinion, depends on how you apply foundation and where you’re applying concealer. I apply concealer under my eyes after I apply foundation. I find that the edges blend best that way and I avoid the dreaded raccoon eyes look.
If you apply foundation sparingly, just to even out skin tone on the chin, nose and forehead, apply concealer first, blend it well and follow up with foundation. If you like more coverage and usually apply foundation all over your face, apply concealer afterwards using the lightest strokes and then blending well.
Choosing a Concealer
The general rule of thumb when choosing a concealer is to pick one that’s one to two shades lighter than your skin tone. If your skin has olive undertones, choose a yellow-based concealer. I prefer a beige or pink-toned one for my ruddy skin. A yellow concealer on my skin tends to turn green or grey, defeating its purpose.
The consistency of a concealer is a matter of personal choice. I like pencil concealers that offer a heavier application just as much as I like cream or liquid ones that can be layered until you reach the level of coverage you desire. One of my favorite examples of the former is Time Balm while Yves St. Laurent’s Touche Eclat is one of my favorite liquid products. The latter comes in a pretty gold tube that you pump until the product is released onto a stiff-bristled brush making it easy to layer and to get into hard-to-reach places on your face such as the skin under the inside corners of your eyes and the sides of your nose.
How – and Where – to Apply Concealer
Under the Eyes
The number one place for concealer is under the eyes. If you’re using a cream concealer, apply several dots of it under your eyes and then blend upward and outward. Your finger or a makeup brush with firm bristles work equally well for blending. If you’re using your finger, pat the concealer into the under eye area. Don’t rub. The under eye area is very delicate and you don’t want to pull tender skin.
To Cover a Blemish
If a zit popped up that you want to cover, first apply foundation, gently patting it over the top of the blemish. Let that set for a few seconds and then gently pat on concealer using your finger. As a final step, dust loose powder or gently press a bit of pressed powder over the blemish to set the concealer. Use an oil-free concealer and foundation so as not to aggravate the problem.
On the Chin and Around the Nose
Apply concealer sparingly over your foundation, if you wear foundation, to even out skin tone and cover any broken capillaries on the sides of the nose and chin. Because the skin here tends to get oily, use an oil-free cream concealer. Press it into your skin gently with your finger or a stiff-bristled brush and follow up with pressed powder that you pat gently over the concealer.
Concealers to Try
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Since I always feel like I have a lot to conceal, this was very helpful info. Touche Eclat seems to be mentioned so often – is it really that good? Somehow I’ve never gotten around to try it.
Hey Jill, I love Touche Eclat. It’s good for so many reasons. It can be layered to impart the perfect coverage and it can also be used as a highlighter. I like to apply it under my eyes, on the top part of my cheeks, around my nostrils, on the crease of my chin and on my brow bone. And, oh, a little bit applied to the bow of the top lip makes my mouth look a little fuller. A little goes a long way – but, if you want even more coverage, layer away. While Touche Eclat is creamy, this winter has been particularly on my skin so I mix it with a little bit of eye cream (mine’s from Estee Lauder) and apply that under my eyes for perfect and moist coverage. While it can be pricey, one tube lasts a long time and it’s a great to go product. xo
OK – now you have me convinced that I need this!
If you do get it, let me know how you like it!